Juergen Tell’Em

Juergen Teller has loomed large in the world of fashion photography for decades. There has been a recent resurgence of recognition and admiration for his work, punctuated by the exhibition “i need to live,” which showcased his extensive portfolio at the Grand Palais in Paris. This exhibit, on view Dec. 16, 2023, through Jan. 9, 2024, displays Teller’s videography and photography – both commissioned and personal works. He is best known for his intimate, provocative editorial portraits, especially those of Vivienne Westwood and Kate Moss. 

What sets Teller apart from other photographers of his era is his commitment to rawness in his portraiture, exploring themes of violation, overexposure, grunge, and heroin chic-you get it. He pushed both himself and his subjects to go beyond what was expected for portraits, a risk that pushed him into international success. 

Drawing inspiration from Teller’s expansive body of work, we aimed to create an ode to his aesthetic using imagery of UNC-Chapel Hill. With a campus as old as the University and buildings dating back to 1793, it is easy to be swept away by the looming, dark architecture that seems to whisper once the tree leaves start to fall. We used the campus and its buildings as a playground for our take on Teller’s work, playing with his themes and compositions and molding them into something new. We experimented with light, styling, posing, and perspective to create what we have titled “Juergen Tell’EM.”

Shot with three models – Jessica Williamson, Amanda Abreu, and Keira Braithwaite – the “Juergen Tell’EM” shoot showcased the intimacy, isolation, and intensity seen throughout Teller’s work. Photographing only a few female-identifying models echoes Teller’s intense fixation on Kate Moss in the 1990s and reinforces common themes in his portfolio. 

Teller relied on a certain stillness within his photographs, capturing his subjects in seemingly unposed or off-guard moments that heightened the intimacy of his images. Our models wore simple, defined makeup and little to no jewelry to play on the intimacy and closeness of Teller’s work. These elements were contrasted with bright colors and bold textures, such as fur and translucent knits. 

The shoot location, Spencer Hall, was chosen for its antique architecture and minimal surroundings. As the sky darkened, we used harsh flash lighting to increase contrast, making the models appear more exposed against their darker, isolating backdrop. The hall-style bathroom was chosen to evoke a feeling of discomfort and a sense of violation when one looks at the photos, similar to the emotional unease one might feel seeing the blatant nudity in Teller’s collection. 

Juergen Tell’Em was the very first shoot of our Epoque issue, serving as a strong base for the future shoots to come. Working with a muse as powerful and influential as Teller presents a unique challenge to our team to develop a vision of our own. Teller’s style and themes are present, but the viewer can see how UNC and the Coulture creative community have sunk their teeth into a work to make it even more alluring.