The spring 2020 collections of New York Fashion Week took conceptual construction to a whole new level. With highly structured looks, the collections worked together to make a statement loud and clear: symmetry is dead and edginess is thriving more than ever this season.
From tie-dye inspired prints; plaid, suiting pieces; polka dots; and florals, Carolina Herrera managed to cover it all in her collection. None of these prints scream super avant-garde, but Herrera worked her magic and made it happen – spring has officially been turned edgy. Boxy blouses met long, structured skirts with the help of chunky square belts. Angular or puffy, however you prefer your sleeves, Herrera’s looks could provide it. Whether it was a blouse or an outerwear garment, the sleeves provided more volume and power than a girl could dream of. Classic elements, sophistication and edge were united all in one collection.
And how can one talk about edge without discussing Tom Ford? Even the setting of his show is the epitome of grit – a subway platform in New York’s Lower East Side. As if the platform wasn’t already a stage, Ford turned the essential mode of transportation of New York into a catwalk. Does it get any cooler than that? Simplistic, luxurious sportswear rocked the subway-transformed-runway. Ford paired relaxed tank tops with voluminous, structured skirts or basketball shorts, a combination which were said to have tortured him from his wall of images that served as inspiration for the collection. Other highlights from the collection included Yves Saint Laurent-inspired breastplates made from glossy plastic. The spiked hair and smokey eye makeup of the models were the icing on the cake, bringing together the aesthetic of the show. From the location to the hair and makeup of the models, Ford’s collection was destined to radiate edginess.
In stark contrast to Ford’s grit, Dion Lee’s collection had almost a utopian, futuristic vibe to it. Lee’s minimalistic, high-brow taste really came through in his highly structured pieces from this collection. The lingerie mixed with tight tops and structured pieces play together beautifully. Lee’s pants, shorts and suits were a testament to the modern-day – loose, but still crisp, with a genderless touch to them. A show consisting mostly of neutrals, Lee threw in an exciting splash of color with pieces plastered with the pattern of a dashing red bandana. Lee amplified angular, avant-garde construction in the best possible way.
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